Entries Posted in ‘Peru’ Category
May 9th, 2010
Thoughts After Seven Months of Travel
It seems a shame to me that in the last 7 months, we didn’t see more, do more, meet more people.
We had plans to do and accomplish different things, and I kind of feel like we planned to do *more*) during the past 7 months of our lives.
My friend Patrick Shaw says that people greatly overestimate what they can do in a year, but greatly underestimate what they can do in ten years.
So maybe we should talk in ten years.
But thinking about it, I realize that we did do a LOT over the past 7 months in central and south America, and laid a foundation for coming back to this part of the world throughout our lives.
However, we had plans.
This post talks about what we had planned to do versus what we did.
(I have written this post to remember what we planned to do, actually did and didn’t do, and also should help others traveling through Central and South America to discover some great places and things to experience.)
Lakes:
We didn’t see lake Titicaca (Bolivia), or Lake Nicaragua.
But we did get to see the beauty of Lake Atitlan (Guatemala).
Islands:
We didn’t see the Galapagos Islands (Ecuador), Isla del Omitepe (Nicaragua), or the San Blas Islands (Panama).
But we learned to SCUBA off of Isla Colon (Panama) in a town called Bocas Del Toro.
Animals:
We didn’t get to see whales or dolphins.
But we helped guard baby turtles and were part of their introduction into the world. We saw monkeys in lots of places throughout central America; saw llamas mating; hummingbirds and butterflies in Mindo, Ecuador; and many other animals and critters. We loved the variety of animals we saw, even if the insects were sometimes disturbing.
Language and culture:
We didn’t spend time living in an indigenous community, (though we spent lots of time around indigenous people).
But we speak Spanish pretty well now. (Thanks Maribel!) We speak well enough to be well understood, to receive compliments on how good our Spanish is, and to understand even difficult topics like politics and religion.
Business:
Because of taking Spanish class every day, and the time involved with both planning and getting from place to place, we didn’t grow our business in the way that we wanted to.
But I know 100% that our videos and written reviews of the places we’ve stayed in Antigua, Guatemala; Boquete, Panama; Quito, Ecuador, and Cuenca, Ecuador; have resulted in more bookings for the owners of those places. Our knowledge of marketing on the Internet has helped other people to grow their businesses. That’s exciting to me.
Ancient Cultures and Civilizations:
We didn’t get to San Augustin, Colombia; or in Peru – the Ruins of Kuelap, Macchu Picchu (due to flooding in March), or the tomb of Sipan near Chiclayo. But we saw the remnants of powerful and amazing ancient civilizations at Copan, Honduras; Tikal, Guatemala; Guayabo National Park, Costa Rica; Ingapirca, Ecuador; Cuenca, Ecuador; and Cajamarca, Peru.
Land Travel:
We did not see Belize; visit Santiago, Chile; return to Buenos Aires, Argentina; nor did we get to most of the countries in South America.
But we saw every land country in Central America (except Belize); went to or near the top of five volcanoes in three countries (Irazu and Poas, Costa Rica; Pacaya, Guatemala; Masaya, Nicaragua; and Cotopaxi, Ecuador); we covered thousands of miles by bus, plane, car, in the water, and on foot; saw amazing markets at Saquisili and Otavalo, Ecuador, and at Chichicastenengo, Guatemala; got to the capital cities of Guatemala (Guatemala City), Nicaragua (Managua), El Salvador (San Salvador), Costa Rica (San Jose), Panama (Panama City), Ecuador (Quito), and Peru (Lima); and met many amazing people along the way.
Personal Growth:
I’ve recognized and let go of some of my own ethnocentricity (which I didn’t know I had); become a Spanish speaker; learned that the jungle is a great place for me to visit, but for short-term visits only; and have learned that even though the longest we’ve been apart in the last 7 months is 4 hours, Carrie and I love and appreciate each other as much or more now that we ever have before.
I feel like a year or more could be spent exploring just Ecuador and Peru, with a mention to the lifetime that could be spent exploring Colombia and the other countries in South America.
I do think that these are areas which we will return to at some (as yet undetermined) future point in our lives.
At the same time, 7 months in central and South America has given me an even greater appreciation for the country I call home, the place where I grew up.
The United States of America is a place where stores almost always have change for a $20 bill, many stores are open 24-7, the bathrooms nearly always have tissue paper and toilet seats, and the spirit of the people, more than anywhere else I’ve ever been, says both in word and in action, “we can do it if we’ll just work hard at it.”
I am so grateful for the opportunities provided by our travels of the last seven months, and I’m very grateful as well for the opportunities and life I’ve been able to have growing up and living in the United States.
Popularity: 14% [?]
May 7th, 2010
Cruz Del Sur Bus Company: A Review of Cruz Del Sur in Peru
Of all the bus companies we’ve traveled with, Andesmar in Argentina remains the best.
However, our experience taking Cruz Del Sur from Cajamarca, Peru to Lima, Peru, comes in a close second.
The taxi from the center of Cajamarca to the Cruz Del Sur terminal cost about 5 soles (less than $2) one way. We went here twice… once the day before to purchase our tickets (recommended) and once the day of to take the bus.
In their best “bus cama” seats, the seats are more like lazy boy loungers.
They don’t recline flat, but do recline to a comfortable sleeping position.
The food served by Cruz Del Sur for dinner and breakfast is relatively tasty.
The Cruz Del Sur buses have individually controlled air conditioning, though our bus didn’t use it the whole time, so the bus did get a bit warm in the night time, but it was fine once they turned the AC back on.
The only complaint I could offer here is that I got a bit bus sick (motion sickness) on our trip with Cruz Del Sur from Cajamarca to Lima.
But unlike other bus travel I’ve done with other bus companies, where the motion sickness is caused by the buses careening around the mountain passes, this bus sickness was simply due to the fact that the mountain passes between Cajamarca and Lima include some pretty tight corners.
Our bus driver with Cruz Del Sur did a good job of taking the passes and switchbacks pretty gently, especially compared with other bus companies.
The ejecutivo seats on Cruz Del Sur from Cajamarca to Lima cost about $38, which is more expensive than with other companies, but it is also much more comfortable than other companies we have traveled with.
In short, (and especially given the other bus companies we’ve traveled with,) I can highly recommend Cruz Del Sur for travel within Peru.
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May 6th, 2010
Fuentes De Aguas: Parque De La Reserva in Lima, Peru
Parque De La Reserva in Lima is also known as the Parque De Las Aguas. This is a review of the park of the water fountains in Lima, Peru.
Lima, at least the parts of the city that we were in, was a surprisingly beautiful place. We walked on paths bordering the cliffs of the ocean. All along the paths were well-manicured lawns, flower beds, and a park where they made some fun sculptures out of mosaic tiles, and a giant statue of a couple kissing.
It was an unexpected and very pleasant surprise that Lima, Peru was clean, beautiful, and (dare I say it,) romantic.
One of the best things we did in Lima was visit the Parque de Las Aguas, also known as the Fuentes De las Aguas, at the Parque De la Reserva in Lima, Peru.
10 years ago, this was a large park that was filled with brown patches and sidewalks that were falling apart.
Today, it is one of the premiere parks of the world.
There are more than 10 large fountains, one of them rivaling, in size, the fountain outside the Bellagio Hotel in Las Vegas.
Entrance costs 2 soles (about 68 cents).
Carrie and I spent 2 or 3 hours just wandering around the park, looking at the beautiful water features, listening to the different music accompanying each fountain, and having a generally mellow and wonderful time.
To whoever took on this project, thank-you. The Parque Fuentes de Las Aguas is one of our favorite experiences from 7 months in 10 countries in Central and South America.
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May 5th, 2010
Lima, Peru: The Unexpected Wonder
When I’ve thought of Lima, Peru up until now, I’ve thought of noise, pollution, and a big city without a lot of infrastructure.
Driving into Lima, we saw a lot of this on the outskirts of the city.
We also experienced it a bit while walking around in Lima, but only a very little bit.
The work that has been done here in the past 7-10 years has made Lima, Peru a REALLY cool city.
Maybe Lima was cool before this, but there was a large exhibit at the Parque Fuentes De Las Aguas which showed all the infrastructure and developments which have happened here in the last decade.
It really is amazing to see all that’s been done or re-done to make the city a really nice place.
We spent time at the Parque Fuentes De Las Aguas.
10 years ago, this place was a standard run-of-the-mill (from the looks of it falling apart and junky) city park.
Today, it’s really beautiful.
Granted, it costs 4 soles to enter ($1.40), but if I lived here, I would pay that to enter a park as cool as this at least once/week.
We stayed at two hotels, Hotel Runcu and Peru Star Apartments Hotel. Both had great services and facilities, and both felt safe and nice.
Peru Star Apartments Hotel was, as a bonus, VERY quiet.
We wandered on the path (that goes along the cliffs to the ocean) on the west side of the city, in the Miraflores neighborhood. It’s beautiful, peaceful, and dare I say, romantic!
We spent time in Kennedy Park and ate at one of what looked like many awesome restaurants, all competing for customers by offering free drinks.
Lima is a city that warrants a return for significantly more exploration than the 1 1/2 days we’ve spent here.
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May 4th, 2010
Peru Star Apartments Hotel in Lima: A Review
Peru Star Apartments Hotel in Lima has the look and feel that someone saw it 5-8 years back and said,
“You know what, we’re going to re-do this place and make it REALLY nice. I mean, LUXURIOUS.”
And then at some point in the project, they looked around and said, “You know what? That’s good enough.”
And you know, it really is.
If you want to be catered to and have lots of luxury (think robes and fuzzy slippers and bubble baths)…
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May 4th, 2010
Hotel Runcu in Lima, Peru: A Review of Hotel Runcu
(Pictures coming soon)
Hotel Runcu was a nice hotel for sure.
I would recommend it, especially at the Internet rate we booked it at ($49/night).
However, I would NOT recommend our particular room.
If they give you room number 204, ask for a different room, PRONTO!
Room 204, even though it had “no Fumar” (no smoking) signs posted in it, had clearly (and probably recently, from the smell) been smoked in.
If you’re a smoker, this room might be good for you, though you shouldn’t be smoking in it.
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May 3rd, 2010
Museo del San Francisco in Cajamarca, Peru
After the Sillas de los Incas, we went to the Museo de la San Francisco.
This museum goes underneath the old church of San Francisco (think tombs and catacombs) as well as through the old Franciscan monastery. Though the entry to the museum was worth it (3 soles); our tour wasn’t really worth it. It cost 10 soles and basically consisted of a guy (coincidentally named Jonathan) who spoke so fast we couldn’t understand what he was saying.
I mean, it was like Micro-Machines man fast. (Remember the man who did the commercials for Micro Machines? Picture him, but in a foreign language you’ve just begun to really grasp.)
It was such a stark contrast to our tour from 12 year old Edwin, who actually used more complicated language, but spoke slowly and clearly.
Jonathan (the tour guide) pointed aggressively at (and in some cases tapped aggressively on) 200-500 year old artifacts which are in delicate condition, and would give us an obvious description of the thing, always using the word example. (“and over here we have an example of an old typewriter”, “and over here are examples of real human bones”, “and over here is an example of a bible”, “and over here are examples of vestments for priests”, “and over here are examples of Incan spears”, etc.
On second thought, the tour guide was worth paying for, being only $3, but we didn’t get any history of the church of San Francisco or the people… just lots of pointing, tapping, and quick, one sentence describing, in VERY FAST Spanish.
I had to ask a lot of questions to get any information more than just the most basic description.
A sample conversation in the catacomb:
“These aren’t just examples, they are real human bones, right”
“Yep.”
“Who are these bones from?”
“Bones of the caxamarca people”
“When where they discovered?”
“About 50 years ago.”
“And what was life like for the Caxamarca?”
“Pretty tough, but interesting. They knew a lot about water.”
“Water?”
“Yep… And over here we have an example of…”
But for $1.30 entry (each) and a $3.30 tour guide, the museum of the old church of San Francisco in Cajamarca is worth a visit.
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May 2nd, 2010
Atahualpa’s Last Stand: the beginning of the end for the Incans. Cajamarca, Peru
Imagine the year is 1533. You’re going to the capital city to pay your respects to the king. To enter the plaza, there are 8 doorways, but each entryway is only big enough for 1 person to enter at a time.
You’re not the only one going to greet Atahualpa, your king. You’re with about 20,000 of your closest friends. All of you are crowding to the center to see the king better.
When he arrives, he does so on a litter, and comes right to the center of the plaza.
But, just then someone you’ve never seen approaches Atahualpa.
He’s carrying something else you’ve never seen before, a bible.
When he greets your king he starts speaking some weird foreign language.
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May 1st, 2010
La Casa De Mirita: Apartment/Hotel/Homestay in Cajamarca, Peru
Casa De Mirita is not a hotel or apartment, but rather an opportunity to stay with a family in Cajamarca, Peru. We enjoyed our two nights here with Vicky, Mirita, and Vicky’s daughter Dianna.
If you are looking for an apartment or hotel during your stay in Cajamarca, why not live with a family instead and experience Peru as Peruvians experience Cajamarca, Peru?
Learn more about the Casa De Mirita by Contacting Us.
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April 29th, 2010
Cajamarca, Peru Was Caxamarca & Other Lessons Learned At the Sillas de los Incas
In Cajamarca, from the Plaza de Las Armas (where Atahualpa was captured), it is possible to see and walk to the mirador de la Ciudad… which is a hill, a garden, and a church overlooking the city. Carrie and I decided to walk there, up the steps which take you to the church, which seems to be near the top.
It’s quite a few steps (maybe 150 or so, plus an uphill walk before that) but there are little shops and artisan markets all along the way to stop at. There are also fun statues all the way up.
The view from the church is absolutely worth it.
Even more worth it are the gardens, which cost 1 Sole (about 35 cents) to enter.
Edwin, a boy there, asked us if we wanted a tour and a bit of the history of the in exchange for a “pequena propina” (small tip).
Why not, we decided.
Edwin the tour guide is AWESOME (if you understand Spanish). He’s 12 years old and has been giving tours since he was 7 years old. He gave us a 30 minute tour of the gardens, which have even better views of the city of Cajamarca than the mirador.
He also told us an amazing amount of history about Cajamarca, the slaughter of the Incans, the tribal wars that took place between the last kings of the Incans, and lots of interesting factoids. Before the Incans inhabited this area, the Caxamarca (a name of a different group of people) lived here. At the top of the hill is a rock with three sillas (Pronounced: See-jyahs or see-yuhs) “seats” which face different directions and are named the “seats of the Incas”.
However, they were actually made by the Caxamarca as a lookout for invaders as well as a marking of where the sun rose during different times of the year.
The Incans just adopted them when they conquered the Caxamarca.
You can’t get really close to the rock with the three sillas, but you can get close to a rock with 2 sillas, where you can sit and have your picture taken.
It felt pretty crazy to sit on a rock which was carved by the Caxamarca about 4,000 years before we got there.
We enjoyed our half hour tour quite a bit and at the end tipped 10 soles (about $3.30), which is a pretty good wage considering Edwin is 12 and also considering we’re in Cajamarca, Peru, where a 10 minute taxi or tuk-tuk ride costs 2-5 soles (if the driver is charging a fair price).
After the Sillas de los Incas, we went to the Museo de la San Francisco.
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